Trip to Rikhasamba (Part-1)

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9^th Sept 2011. (Hidden Valley)

I wonder on what actually was going on between the easterly and the westerly blowing from the lap of the Nilgiri and the Dhawalagiri respectively. It was difficult to figure out their relationship; were they friends or foes. Early in the morning a mild breeze travelled through the range of hills to meet Dhawalagiri, at dusk an extremely hard wind, striking rigid hills, travelled to meet Nilgiri and at noon a WAR which produced huge amount of fog covering the hills and creating huge disturbances to passersby. And we were stuck at the meeting point of these lively winds: Yak Kharka.

Yak Kharka, at about 4000 m altitude, was about 6 hours of walk from Tukuche. We had reached Yak Kharka after parting out a number of nature’s hurdles. Fairly, Mother Nature had become hostile enough to show us a way back. But, how could we give up with our own mother. After all we had same spirit as she did. We found different ways to escape better say struggle with.

Ghasa Village.

Kali Gandaki roaring down the villages of Mustang, Myagdi, Parbat etc., which we found along the side of the road while travelling from Beni to Tukuche was the only inspiration for us especially me to walk a long way on mild rain which could have easily ended up with rain fever and common cold for some weeks. The furious rolling down water was rhythmically hitting a huge stone in Kaligandaki. But the stone always managed to be rigid enough to divert away the water as sand blowing in air, in calm. What else it could be for me except inspiration.

Our travel to Tukuche nevertheless was a travel worth to remember. The single lane road passing through small narrow village followed by 60 degree tilting ditches could take any one’s breathe for an instance. But extremely beautiful waterfalls, green hills and beautiful Kaligandaki along the side of the narrow road made the travel a worthy memory. Among the waterfalls Rupse Waterfall is the one that stole my heart away.

Tukuche

Tukuche is one among the major stopping points for the people travelling to Muktinath. The small village of Thakalies gave us a sense of cultural generosity on our first glance. There existed four types of Thakali Society; Gauchan, Sherchan, Bhattachan and Hirachan. Each society has their own god and there are four monasteries built together in respect to these four gods, spreading the outer world with the message of religious tolerance of this small world of Thakalis. Thatch roofed stone houses with well managed firewood and Torans and Buddhist Flags flapping above continuously with the cool breeze blowing all the day are the specialties of this place. And most important is the simplicity and generosity in behavior of people.

We diverted our way from the trail which would further reach Muktinath via Jomsong and Kagbeni. We started climbing up the steep hill above Tukuche to reach Yak Kharka. Enigmatic environment of this place did not seem like in the welcoming mood. Cold wind blowing extremely was compelling our heart to scream. But yet we managed to stay there.

Yak Kharka

Morning in Yak Kharka was pleasant. Beautiful view of Nilgiri and Dhawalagiri on the blue background of sky and white patches of cloud, in no words, could be explained. Besides, the sudden development of fog due to a war between chilling and moist winds and its disappearance within few minutes leaving out clear view of ranges of hills and mountains can easily put any nature lover under the captive. Yak Kharka, as suggested by name, is the grazing land for yaks especially in winters. This place has some yak stable and few high altitude goats; chyangra stable. This place also holds some cultural significance. During August-September, a huge number of people visit this place to drink yak bloods. They believe that yak’s raw blood would make them healthy and cure many diseases including cancer.